Unlike traditional scrubs that merely graze the skin’s surface, facial peels operate on a more profound level, addressing concerns at their root. “They operate on the principle of exfoliation, a process that facilitates the shedding of dead skin cells to reveal the fresher, more rejuvenated layers beneath,” says dermatologist Dr Juliet Aylward.

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These transformative procedures come in various forms, each employing unique mechanisms to achieve their skin-renewing effects. Perhaps the most popular, chemical peels leverage acids such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) to dissolve the bonds between skin cells. “They promote the exfoliation process and stimulate collagen production, leaving the skin smoother and more even-toned,” Aylward adds.

Then, you’ll find enzyme peels, which use natural enzymes like papain and bromelain to break down dead skin cells, offering a gentler alternative suitable for sensitive skin. Mechanical or physical peels, on the other hand, involve abrasive materials or tools, mechanically scrubbing away dead skin cells to reveal a renewed complexion.

The distinction between skin peels and scrubs is not only rooted in their ingredients or methods – it lies in the depth of their impact. While scrubs predominantly address surface-level concerns, skin peels penetrate deeper into the skin, making them a more comprehensive solution for various skin issues.

Aylward explains that this depth results from the controlled trauma induced by the peeling process, triggering the skin’s natural healing mechanism: “As the damaged outer layers peel away, the skin is prompted to regenerate, encouraging the formation of new, healthier cells.”

At-home vs professional peels

At-home peels, widely available as over-the-counter products, typically feature lower concentrations of active ingredients, allowing for a milder exfoliation compared with their clinic-based counterparts. These formulations are often designed for regular use and offer a more gradual approach to skin renewal, making them suitable for those seeking maintenance or dealing with mild skin concerns.

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By contrast, clinic-based chemical peels, administered by certified professionals, provide higher concentrations of active ingredients and are customised to address specific skin issues, penetrating deeper into the skin and yielding more dramatic results. “They’re ideal for people dealing with more advanced concerns such as deep wrinkles, scars, uneven pigmentation, significant sun damage or precancerous growths,” Aylward says.

Beyond their cosmetic allure, chemical peels are also used as preventive medicine. While research in this area is ongoing, studies suggest that certain chemical peels, like those containing glycolic acid – a type of AHA – or trichloroacetic acid (TCA), have shown promise in reversing actinic keratosis (dry, scaly skin patches) and preventing the formation of cancerous cells – especially in individuals with sun-damaged skin.

Different types of skin peels

Chemical peels stand as a dynamic category within the skincare realm, offering a spectrum of options tailored to diverse skin concerns and preferences. One of the most popular and versatile types is the glycolic acid peel. “Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is known for its small molecular size, allowing it to penetrate the skin deeply, and making it effective in battling issues such as fine lines, uneven skin tone and acne,” Aylward says, explaining that glycolic acid peels can vary in strength, from mild formulations suitable for at-home use to more substantial concentrations administered by a skincare professional.

Another potent option is the popular TCA peel. This medium-depth treatment goes beyond the superficial layers, effectively treating more pronounced issues like age spots, hyperpigmentation and deeper wrinkles with a controlled level of downtime.

For those seeking a milder alternative, Aylward suggests lactic acid peels, as they offer a gentler form of exfoliation. Derived from milk, lactic acid is particularly well suited for sensitive skin. These peels help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and enhance overall skin radiance.

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